Corsetry at the London College of Fashion
During this course, I learned how to accurately construct a Victorian corset, using traditional techniques, however with the use of an industrial sewing machine. I learned boning and style line techniques used to manipulate the body, as well as a deeper understanding into the importance of accurate stitching on functional garments. I chose to decorate my corset with olive velvet ribbon over the channels, and an inward scooping neckline.
At the beginning, I intended the corset to have strings of pearls and jewels, and velvet ribbon along the channels and a velvet ruffle at the hem, however, I ended up really liking the simplistic velvet ribbon on the channels, and decided less was more in this case.
Initial Sketch
Between the first and second week of class, I ventured out to find the top layer of fabric and any decorations needed for the corset. I was only meant to find samples of fabrics and findings, but not all shops allowed samples, and I was so sure this is what I wanted, and the fabric I decided on was cotton (as opposed to a tricker satin or lace, which would have needed to be approved by the instructor), that I went ahead and purchased the necessary materials. Yay!
Sourced Materials
I traced pattern blocks of the needed size of my corset, and added seam allowance. I used tracing wheels and carbon copy paper to trace the pattern onto the base coutil fabric, muslin, and facing fabric. I then tacked the seam allowances onto the coutil, and tacked the muslin and facing fabric together on the seam allowances
Traced Pattern
In class, I inserted the busk, stitched in the ditch the coutil/muslin and facing fabric layers, created boning channels, created boning with rigilene, and inserted the eyelets. I learned proper corset lacing technique, as the eyelets at the waist are placed closer together, and the lacing create synching loops at these eyelets, creating optimal shape!
Stitched Corset, Added Channels, Inserted Busk and Eyelets
First Fitting
Here, the corset is too small, and was not properly fitting. My instructor advised me to let out the fitting seams evenly on each side, and I was to then trim and finish the fitting seam, and create boning channels on either side.
Final Fitting
The corset has a visibly better shape and fit. It was time to trim the neckline and hem, stitch the velvet ribbon to the boning channels, and finish the edges with bias tape.
Time to Celebrate!
I wore my corset to our end of semester celebration, which the class was urged to do, but I was the only one to do so. I did not fully synch my corset because I was meant to be happy and thriving in this moment, not at risk of muscular atrophy in a country far away from home. Anyways, I won best dressed at the celebration and was gifted a magnum bottle of champagne. Mwah!